Gower Climbing Festival 2013

Friday 6th — Sunday 8th September 2013

Introduction

The Gower Climbing Festival, now in its 5th year, is a well established event in the BMC calendar for climbers from all over the UK. Festival HQ this year will be Pitton Cross campsite, where in the BMC tent local enthusiasts will be serving up bacon and egg rolls for a small donation to either the RLNI or the local bolt fund on both Saturday and Sunday mornings. Festival goers can get information and recommendations on where to climb over the weekend, and we've selected the dates so there are low tides early afternoon to take advantage of climbing straight off golden sands. On Friday and Saturday evening we'll be heading to a local pub for a few drinks and good food. Saturday evening will see the famous Pub Quiz, and some free slideshows of recent adventures local climbers have had.

Location

The map below highlights where the accommodation, climbing areas and pubs are in the surrounding area. Click to view a larger version.

The Festival

Gower offers plenty of climbing for everyone, with trad routes ranging from Diffs to the high Extremes, sport routes from Fr3 to Fr8b, and a handful of bouldering areas too. The festival has been held in 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012, and each of the previous events turned out to be a great success, with plenty of visitors from all over the UK joining us for the weekend. The best way to find out what this year's festival will be like is to watch the festival video (see below), browse our Facebook group look at a festival report, or read the feature article in the BMC's Summit magazine.

Events

The local team will be on hand both mornings with the finest Gower bacon and/or egg rolls for a donation to the RNLI or the local bolt fund. Special festival topos will be available, and there'll be plenty of locals at the event to make recommendations for your day's climbing.

The authors of the most recent guidebook for the area (Gower Rock) will be on hand with copies available for purchase.

Everyone is welcome, although please note that the organisers will not be providing instruction for beginners. If you are new to climbing and would like to come along, we recommend that you employ a qualified instructor. Here are some local instructors that know the area well:

Other options can be found on the Association of Mountaineering Instructors website, which has contact details for many providers.

Topos

Topos for selected crags will be available on the Saturday morning from the festival's base at Pitton Cross campsite. Some of these are also available from this website (see right), to give you a taste of what to expect. For those wishing to explore more of Gower and other regions of South Wales there's the new select Gower Rock guide, or the definitive guidebook from the South Wales Mountaineering Club, both available from all good guidebook stockists. Alternatively, the SWMC wiki has up-to-date details for most crags in the surrounding area.

Selected climbing areas

The following are some of the most popular and well-known Gower crags, but there are plenty more all along the peninsula. More detailed information about these and other areas in South Wales is available on the SWMC wiki, or you can click on the titles below to view the crag pages on UKClimbing.com.

Fall Bay
This area contains some of the most popular routes on Gower, and you could easily spend the entire weekend here. King Wall is a popular crag with numerous routes in the Diff to VS range. Above this tidal crag is Lewes Castle, a slightly tougher affair with most grades around VS and HVS and a few low Extremes.
Yellow Wall
Gower's showcase crag, with several serious trad undertakings. With the tides right all weekend, abseil in and get on the likes of Muppet Show, Transformer, or the crag's namesake: Yellow Wall.
Juniper Wall
One of the tallest crags on Gower, with a collection of great VSs, and a contender for one of the best HVSs on Gower: Assassin.
Boiler Slab
This easy-angled limestone slab is great for novices and beginners, with lots of routes in the VS to E2 range, and a handful of Severes. At low tide the sea reveals rock pools below the crag, great to cool off in and explore.
Oxwich
If tough sport is why you've ventured onto Gower then head for Oxwich, set near some of the best panoramic views on Gower. Home to a classic Fr6c, Kissin' the Pink, and many more routes from Fr7a upwards.
Three Cliffs
Probably the most well known area of Gower, and the location of one of its most well known routes: Scavenger. With trad mainly in the lower grades, the routes are generally slabby affairs, though for the more adventurous there's Under Milkwood.
Foxhole Cove
Home of sport routes from Fr3 to Fr8b, with the majority of grades around 7a (around 23 routes in total). Re-geared in 2009 by local climbers funded by the bolt fund, arguably the premier sport crag on Gower.

Accommodation

We've arranged a few options for your stay on Gower, from camping through to hotel rooms. We recommend pre-booking with the accommodation directly where appropriate.

Alternatively take a look at the-gower.com for a range of accommodation options.

This year, Pitton Cross Camping is £6.50 per person per night (instead of the usual £10). Please make a booking by phone (01792 390593) or online, and mention the BMC to get the discounted price.

Please do not wild camp on Gower — there are many campsites and other accommodation options available instead.